Located in an alleyway nestled between Larimer and Market Streets, right between Park Avenue and 22nd, El Borrego Negro has officially launched its inaugural morning pop-up at a new venue housed in the corner of an old warehouse, adjacent to La Diabla Pozole y Mezcal. The enticing aromas from the establishment make it easier to find than the modest sign crafted on a wooden pallet that reads, “Barbacoa de Hoyo por Libra o Taco Consome – Tortilla Azul Nixtamal.” Through a roll-open garage door, Chef Jose Vilchez Avila’s groundbreaking culinary concept is beginning to take form.
El Borrego Negro is a hole-in-the-wall eatery specializing in locally raised lamb, slow-cooked in the traditional Mexican way—wrapped in agave leaves and cooked in a pit underground, a technique reminiscent of what is frequently found in Mexico City, the Chef’s hometown. Chef Avila reflects on his culinary journey, emphasizing that while he did not invent this concept, it is rooted deeply in his upbringing and cultural experiences.
“It’s not that I invented this concept,” he explained while elaborating on his previous endeavor, La Diabla. “You know, in Mexico City and the state of Guerrero, you can see pozolerias everywhere. But it’s something that I grew up with, and when I moved here, it was just nonexistent. But there was a lot of pho places on Federal, just packed with Mexicans. At the time, coming from Mexico City, there were no pho places, so I knew that we weren’t in there for the rice noodles. Like no way. We were there for the broth. It’s spicy and there’s fresh lime juice. So that’s how the idea for La Diabla came about.”
Since the opening of La Diabla in 2020 during the pandemic, Chef Avila has seen remarkable success, earning James Beard nominations for Best Chef in the Mountain Region in both 2022 and 2023, while La Diabla earned recognition from Bon Appétit as one of the 25 Best Restaurants in the country in 2022.
Now, with La Diabla established as a central figure in Denver’s dining scene, Chef Avila is ready to explore new territory. “I got the warehouse next door to La Diabla, and with all that space, I went crazy with ideas,” Chef Avila remarked.
Inside the warehouse, culinary innovation is at play, with plans for a seafood establishment, a churro shop, and a mushroom concept, all in motion. “We’re trying to control as much of the process as possible,” he said, pointing towards the lingering embers from the pit barbecue where El Borrego Negro’s daily menu is crafted.
“Our goal is to create a mushroom farm to source all the mushrooms for our upcoming mushroom concept and to integrate them into various dishes. Even though all of these ideas are inspired by Mexican culture, they are distinct from one another, reflecting the diversity within Mexico itself. Food from Chihuahua doesn’t resemble food from Merida Yucatan, and similarly, each concept explores different flavors and presentations.”
Chef Avila elaborates on his commitment to authenticity by mentioning that he raises his own animals and grows his own corn, striving to keep the culinary experience as close to home as possible.
Describing his culinary creations, Chef Avila highlights the Taco Barbacoa de Borrego served on a Tortilla Azul Nixtamal. The lamb is lovingly sourced from his ranch and slow-cooked overnight in the Hoyo, delivering a dish that is both melty and decadent. The dish is complemented with a house-made salsa that adds a pleasant kick, while fresh cilantro and lime bring brightness to the plate.
Alongside the taco is a Huitlacoche Quesadilla, with creamy queso fresco, a hint of smokiness from the comal, and freshness from the house-made guacamole. These dishes encapsulate nostalgic flavors that remain light and well-balanced.
While El Borrego Negro currently stands as the only concept operational within the warehouse, Chef Avila envisions a promising future filled with personalized culinary experiences. “I have a lengthy list of ideas right now,” he admitted, finally settling in for a moment amidst the chaos of the pop-up’s inaugural service.
“Once we refine these little details, our operations will become smoother, our service faster, and the food even better. It’s an ongoing work in progress, and I’m just thrilled. It’s a tremendous accomplishment for my team and me to have survived the first day; this is just the beginning. People keep asking me if I plan to launch everything at once. No. Who in their right mind would do that? What I’m already doing feels quite ambitious. There’s more work ahead and logistics to figure out, but we’ll keep pushing forward. Ultimately, it’s about the team, and I have an amazing one.”
As the day’s service wound down, chefs prepared the hoyo for the next slow-cooked barbacoa borrego, while others tended to grill smoked pineapples, agave leaves, and a sheep’s head above ground. Soft sounds of camaraderie filled the space as workers laid tiles in the adjoining area that will house future concepts, while chefs inside the warehouse continued to plate vibrant, fresh tortillas from the comal. Bartenders balanced their way through the bustling crowd, serving micheladas, as happy guests filled plastic tables—old and new customers alike flocked to the alley for a taste of something beyond the ordinary.
The palpable energy of the inaugural service at the warehouse is a glimpse into what is sure to be an ongoing experience of culinary exploration from Chef Jose Vilchez Avila. Even with the myriad tasks at hand, he hinted at even more upcoming projects on the horizon, expanding the possibilities of authentic and unique Mexican cuisine in Denver.
La Diabla Pozole y Mezcal operates at 2233 Larimer St., Denver, with hours set from Monday 3 p.m. – 10 p.m., Tuesday 3 p.m. – 11 p.m., Wednesday – Thursday 11 a.m. – 10 p.m., Friday 11 a.m. – 11 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. – 11 p.m., and Sunday 10 a.m. – 9 p.m.
The El Borrego Negro warehouse, alongside Chef Avila’s forthcoming culinary innovations, is located at 2239 Larimer St., Denver, and can be accessed through La Diabla’s patio or through the back alley. Its hours are limited to Saturday and Sunday from 7 a.m. – 10 a.m.
image source from：https://303magazine.com/2025/06/new-concept-ignites-chef-jose-vilchez-avilas-larimer-street-expansion/
