The De Leon family, a renowned name in Portland’s Mexican food scene, is set to further enrich the culinary landscape of downtown Portland. Lucy De Leon, daughter of the founders of Tortilleria y Tienda De Leon’s, is launching a new restaurant named Madrina Cocina Mexicana, with an expected opening in August.
Having successfully operated popular eateries like La Patroncita and Salsas Locas, De Leon is determined to embrace the downtown location, even as some business owners hesitate amidst current challenges. Guided by years of experience, she is optimistic about finding a welcoming market for her latest concept.
“I literally said, ‘God, if it’s for me, give it to me. If it’s not — if it’s gonna be something that’s gonna make me stumble — take it from me, I don’t want it,’” De Leon shared, expressing her faith in this venture. “So obviously, it is for me.”
Madrina Cocina Mexicana will offer a warm atmosphere embracing traditional Mexican cuisine, featuring staples like tacos al pastor, pollo rostizado, quesabirrias, and carnitas. The name “Madrina” translates to godmother, reflecting De Leon’s desire to empower women and support her community.
“I love to empower women… and that’s why we chose madrina because I feel like a madrina is always trying to help others and serve others,” she explained.
The story of Lucy De Leon is intertwined with her family’s journey, as she was born in Texas to immigrant parents from Tamaulipas, Mexico. Growing up, her family traveled across the U.S. for seasonal farmwork. In 1999, while attending Portland State University, her parents established Tortilleria y Tienda De Leon’s, which swiftly gained popularity for its delicious carnitas, chile rellenos, and fresh tortillas.
De Leon took a break from her education to help manage the family business and later became CEO after her parents retired during the pandemic. In 2022, the tortilleria transitioned to Southeast Portland, rebranding as Salsas Locas, a cherished Mexican restaurant known for its vibrant outdoor seating and diverse menu.
More recently, in 2023, De Leon opened La Patroncita, a bar and lounge marked by its colorful decor and innovative pink tortillas. She also oversees the wholesale production of Salsas Locas’ burritos, chips, and salsa, available at local establishments like New Seasons and Market of Choice.
Madrina Cocina will find its home at 1237 S.W. Jefferson St., previously occupied by the Japanese restaurant Chef Naoko. Situated strategically between Lincoln High School and Portland State University, and directly across from the Consulate General of Mexico, the location is expected to attract a diverse clientele, including students and downtown workers.
Despite warnings from others against opening in downtown Portland, De Leon chose to trust her instincts, seeing potential for positive transformation in the city’s core.
“This was an opportunity that I couldn’t let go,” she remarked. “I went to Portland State, and I’ve always loved downtown. … I see myself here, and I really can see this being such a huge benefit to downtown and our community.”
The new establishment will feature a family-friendly restaurant on one side alongside a mercadito, a small market offering lunch items and snacks. In bringing this vision to life, the menu will include beloved offerings from Salsas Locas, as well as De Leon’s cherished family recipe for pollo rostizado.
“The pollo rostizado is something that I’ve grown up with,” De Leon recalled fondly. “Dad would always be making them in the oven… I’m just really excited to bring that back because we used to make it back on Glisan, and now we don’t anymore.”
Additional menu highlights will include elote on the cob, blue corn tortillas, fish tacos, and buñuelos—fried dough dusted with cinnamon sugar. The restaurant will also curate a selection of beverages from Latina-owned wineries, cideries, and breweries.
“It’ll be all about spotlighting and highlighting those Latina-owned businesses,” asserted Lucy Winn, the interior designer for both La Patroncita and Madrina Cocina. “We want to bring them to these spaces downtown so they can have the same exposure that Lucy is gonna have for her food.”
Empowering women is a core value integrated into every aspect of the restaurant, even the artwork. De Leon’s nephew, Mario De Leon Jr., plans to create vibrant murals depicting women’s empowerment themes.
“It’s gonna be something with a lot of flowers and strong portraiture to really show women empowerment,” he explained. “I have two daughters, and one thing that I like to show them is that you can work for yourself. And one example that I have is my aunt.”
De Leon hopes guests will feel welcomed and safe in the community that Madrina Cocina seeks to cultivate.
“There’s so much going on around the world,” she noted. “Here, you’re coming to taste nuestra cultura (our culture), and we make everything con amor (with love).”
Madrina Cocina is anticipated to commence operations in late August at 1237 S.W. Jefferson St. Until then, food enthusiasts can find Salsas Locas serving tacos, burritos, and tamales at 4512 S.E. 28th Ave., open from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday and from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Sundays. Meanwhile, La Patroncita is open for business at 2832 S.E. Belmont St., with a menu featuring nachos, enchiladas, tacos, and a full cocktail selection from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, and from 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday.
image source from：oregonlive
