Thursday

07-03-2025 Vol 2010

Discovering the Hidden Gem of Hawi: Authenticity in Hawaii

Upon rounding a bend at the northern tip of the Big Island, a wooden sign proclaims, ‘Welcome to Hawi.’ My rental Jeep instinctively slows as I approach this quaint hamlet of just 1,934 residents.

Hawi stands in stark contrast to the resort-clogged beaches that lie 30 miles south. With colorful plantation-era buildings lining its single main street and absolutely no chain stores, the town feels like a place frozen in time.

Having explored 38 Hawaiian towns over the years, I find myself captivated by Hawi’s unique charm, prompting a sudden stop in my thoughts. This might be the only town in Hawaii where 100% of its historic core is preserved, creating a living museum that often goes unnoticed by mainland travelers.

Hawi, though small, certainly makes an impression. While over 20,000 visitors traverse its streets annually, they spread out so thinly across seasons that it’s not uncommon to find only a handful of tourists at a time.

Unlike the bustling sidewalks of Lahaina or the crowded cruise ship docks of Kona, Hawi provides a breath of fresh air. The historic wooden storefronts play host to over 40 local artisans, who craft everything from traditional koa wood carvings to contemporary Hawaiian jewelry.

One local, who prefers to be known as Keoni, has preserved his grandmother’s 1920s plantation home by transforming its front into a gallery featuring six island artists. “We’re not trying to be the next big thing,” he shares with pride. “Just preserving what’s real.”

Visitors often come to Hawi expecting another tourist trap but find themselves engaged in deep conversations with locals who have lived here for generations. Many leave the town feeling transformed, taking home a piece of Hawaii’s authentic essence.

What makes Hawi even more special is its dual nature. A mere 10 minutes away lies the rugged, untamed Pololu Valley, famous for its dramatic black sand beach, which can only be accessed by hiking down steep switchbacks.

This blend of rich cultural heritage and unspoiled natural beauty is difficult to find in the more crowded tourist spots like Waikiki. Hawi’s commitment to preserving its architectural history is reminiscent of how towns in Missouri maintain an impressive number of pre-Civil War buildings, albeit with a distinctly Hawaiian twist.

International visitors have frequently compared Hawi to the serene fishing villages of Madeira, Portugal. Both locales boast colorful historic structures perched atop breathtaking coastlines, flourishing artisan traditions, and an atmosphere that reflects a slower pace of life.

The notable distinction? Travelers can reach Hawi in just a 5.5-hour flight from Los Angeles, while Madeira requires a grueling 14+ hour journey.

Similar to the villages in Madeira, Hawi maintains a rhythm that resonates with nature, where shops open when the owners are ready and close when the trade winds invite a refreshing swim.

The concentration of creative talent in this small town rivals that of larger cities, as the galleries overflow with stories that depict a landscape formed by ancient volcanoes and the powerful Pacific Ocean. Hawi’s authenticity has caught the attention of a PBS Hawaii documentary that aims to uncover the Big Island’s hidden treasures, bringing this gem the recognition it deserves.

Travelers aiming to experience the true essence of Hawi should consider timing their visit carefully. Between July and August, a rare 60-day period allows three unique phenomena to converge: cooler temperatures that are 10°F less than Waikiki, seabird nesting season along coastal cliffs, and the annual Kohala Mountain Wind Festival.

Taking place in late July 2025, this local celebration transforms the town with traditional Hawaiian music, craft demonstrations, and authentic food experiences that surpass any commercial luaus.

Unlike tourist-centered events, this festival has grown organically from the community, celebrating the culture in a genuine way.

Additionally, the coastal cliffs near Pololu Valley become home to nesting seabirds during this season, offering stunning visuals as these magnificent birds swoop between the ocean and their nests. Early morning offers the best opportunities for birdwatching as they return from nighttime fishing trips.

For those wanting to visit Hawi, the best route is to fly into Kona International Airport and drive approximately 50 miles north along the volcanic coastline. It’s advisable to avoid weekends when day-trippers from nearby resorts increase traffic.

Travelers should opt for one of the seven historic plantation cottages available as vacation rentals in the area, rather than conventional hotels, to dive deeper into the local lifestyle.

Reservations should be made at least three months in advance for summer visits. If planning to attend the Wind Festival (July 28-30, 2025), aim to arrive mid-week to beat the crowds. Festival grounds open at 9 AM each day, but locals arrive as early as 8 AM to secure the best parking spots.

As I depart from Hawi, this vibrant town feels like a parallel Hawaii. Here, authenticity triumphs over commercialization. I envision my daughter Emma delighting in the vibrant, wooden spinner dolphins created by talented local artisans, while my wife Sarah savors capturing photographs that juxtapose civilization’s charm against nature’s wild beauty. Hawi is akin to discovering a hidden diner amidst an endless expanse of fast-food chains: familiar yet refreshingly genuine.

image source from:journee-mondiale

Benjamin Clarke