Los Angeles’s renowned seafood specialist, chef Francisco Leal, has returned to the street food scene, preparing Sinaloan-style shellfish and seafood towers at his new stand, Mariscos Chiltepín.
In September 2019, Leal established his mariscos shop in the industrial area of Vernon, California, setting up a few tables and chairs along desolate warehouse-lined streets.
Having attended culinary school in Sinaloa, Leal spent 17 years working for the pizza giant Pizzeta before pursuing his dream of starting his own culinary venture in the United States.
In Vernon, a city known for its exclusively industrial landscape and sparse population, Leal encountered Roberto Pérez, a customer with aspirations of his own cevichería.
This encounter led to a partnership that resulted in the opening of Del Mar Ostionería along La Brea Avenue in March 2023.
Del Mar Ostionería quickly garnered acclaim, winning an Eater Award for Best New Food Truck in the same year.
However, the food truck faced challenges when it was recently shut down by the City of Los Angeles due to complaints from neighboring businesses.
Although Leal continues as a chef consultant for Del Mar, he has stepped away from daily operations as the truck searches for a new location.
In June 2023, Leal quietly returned to his roots, setting up shop on the same sidewalk next to Basic Textile Incorporated in Vernon where he first sold mariscos.
Despite the gritty industrial setting lacking the relaxing vibes of Playa Maviri, Leal is serving what many consider to be the best Sinaloan barra fria dishes in Los Angeles at Mariscos Chiltepín, featuring intensely spicy ceviches and aguachiles.
Under a long blue pop-up canopy, Leal has arranged a row of plastic folding tables covered in black printed tablecloths.
Using fresh Mexican shrimp, firm callo de hacha (pen shell clams), cooked octopus from Nayarit, and cured snook (callo de robalo) sourced from his ice chest, he prepares ceviches, tostadas, seafood cocktails, and aguachiles.
Another ice chest is stocked with sliced vegetables and fruits for the barra fria menu, offering dishes typically found in Culiacán or his hometown of Los Mochis.
Every Tuesday and Thursday, he receives live chocolate clams, also known as chocolatas, and Kumiai oysters from Baja California, with the chocolatas and oysters topped with sturgeon caviar classified as secret menu items not to be overlooked.
“About 90 percent of my seafood comes from Mexico, such as Sinaloa and Sonora,” Leal explains, noting that he sources his seafood from Pacific Fresh Fish Company in Downtown LA.
To start, diners might try a spicy callo de robalo shooter, where the cold-brining process enhances both the flavor and sheen of the snook.
This dish pairs wonderfully with a refreshing Corona Non-Alcoholic, a michelada made with the same beer, or even a virgin margarita.
Leal’s ceviche mitotero features a flavorful blend of cooked and lime-cured shrimp, octopus, and callo de lobina, all tossed in a Clamato-based mixture starring lime juice, ground chile chiltepín, and salsa negra.
This dish is truly an umami bomb, with an extra spicy version for those who desire a little more heat to scoop up with cracked pieces of tostadas or Saltines.
At Mariscos Chiltepín, the theme revolves around the ultra-spicy chile chiltepín, allowing diners to experience Sinaloa’s explosive flavors that are often absent at other cevicherías in Los Angeles.
“Here, I don’t have to hold back on the heat, which is more the way we like it in Mexico,” Leal states confidently.
The tuna ceviche also benefits from the added kick of chiltepín; Leal shapes the fatty fish into a low-rise tower garnished with diced cucumber, red onion, and mango, crowned with sliced avocado, and finished with a sprinkling of Masago Arare (rice pearls) and salsa negra.
Kanicrab tostadas, topped with fried leeks and microgreens, reflect a nod to a course Leal completed in Japanese cuisine during culinary school.
The menu concludes with a selection of seafood tostadas, cocktails, and botanas, or snacks.
Leal’s most daring and intense offerings can be found in his aguachiles.
The sauces for these aguachiles feature a savory smoked salsa, a toasty peanut salsa, and sweeter mango or strawberry versions, all incorporating chile chiltepín.
It’s typical in Sinaloa to request a preferred spice level; however, it’s worth noting that even in Mexico, many aren’t prepared for the extreme measures Leal employs.
“Want extra spicy? How about chiltepín with ghost pepper?” he challenges.
Featuring delicate Mexican shrimp arranged around a plate with julienned vegetables and avocado at the center, his aguachiles are doused in a striking near-neon-orange salsa.
This fiery salsa ignites the palate with sharp heat and earthy flavors from chiltepín, enhanced unexpectedly by the ghost pepper spice as it gradually emerges.
Heat seekers will appreciate the flavor complexity this blend of chiles provides.
Diners can also opt for a duo or trio of aguachiles, giving them the chance to sample the varied salsas at Mariscos Chiltepín.
Those brave enough to order the spiciest aguachile, featuring both chiltepín and ghost pepper, should consider pairing it with charcoal, tamarind pulp, and black salt-infused lemonade for a cooling effect.
However, it’s worth noting that sometimes, sipping an acidic drink can enhance the fire.
It’s advisable to wait until the fiery chiles reach their half-life before taking a sip.
“I like to be on the streets here in Vernon,” Leal shares.
“The Mexican customers don’t mind the heat.”
Mariscos Chiltepín can be found at 1836 East 41st Street in Vernon, California, with hours of operation from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., seven days a week.
image source from：https://la.eater.com/2025/4/15/24409065/los-angeles-best-mariscos-stand-ceviche-aguachile-vernon-california
