Portland, known for its eclectic culinary offerings, has long seen a healthy debate among sandwich enthusiasts over the merits of various hoagie styles. Ranging from creative innovations to authentic takes that pay homage to regional traditions, Portland’s meat, cheese, and bread purveyors are always pushing the envelope. Now, a respected brewery in the city is quietly entering the fray, providing hoagie options that satisfy both the purist and the experimentalist.
Ruse Brewing, which opened its doors in 2018 under the partnership of Shaun Kalis and Devin Benware, quickly garnered a reputation for exceptional craft beers, including vibrant West Coast IPAs and crisp lagers. Initially, their Brooklyn neighborhood taproom, located along the MAX line in the Iron Fireman Collective building, became a must-visit for beer aficionados. In 2022, they expanded their venture into the culinary world with Crust Collective, a waterfront pizza spot in Vancouver, Washington, that highlights Kalis’s Detroit-style pizza background.
With the opening of a Slabtown location in 2024, Ruse Brewing sought to diversify their menu, aiming to capture the downtime lunch crowd with a beloved food item closely tied to their roots: the hoagie. To create their unique sandwiches, Kalis and Benware applied the same meticulous craftsmanship that has characterized their beers and pizzas. The result? Four exceptional hoagies, lovingly made available just five days a week in Vancouver and the Alphabet District, and once a week on Thursdays in Brooklyn, designed to cultivate the same loyal following they built through their beverages.
“The house-baked bread is a process alongside running the whole pizza kitchen and bar, so we kind of need to keep it limited to lunch hours for space constraints,” Benware explained.
The culinary journey of Ruse’s sandwiches started with inspiration drawn from ubiquitous New England gas station grinders, as well as local favorites like Portland’s Bakers Mark and San Francisco’s celebrated Deli Board, known for its Dutch Crunch bread.
“Our freshly baked bread is definitely the star,” Benware emphasized. “We describe it as a light sourdough. It’s got a very gentle salt profile with just the tiniest amount of tang.”
After an extensive trial-and-error process, Ruse has successfully concocted a bread that strikes a perfect balance between crunchiness and chewiness, resembling a blend of San Francisco-style rolls and classic East Coast deli bread. This ideal bread serves as an exquisite vessel, particularly for the hoagie that stands out at Ruse: the Stallion.
This highly praised sandwich, priced at $17, features a sumptuous assortment of Italian meats, including capicola, soppressata, finocchiona salami, and prosciutto, complemented by a unique twist of white American cheese.
“With the Italian, we wanted it classic—a variety of fresh sliced Italian meats, finely shredded veggies, and house-roasted garlic aioli,” Benware noted. Keeping it straightforward yet flavorful, the Stallion offers a satisfying experience without feeling overly indulgent. The pepper relish adds a delightful zing and heat, ensuring that every bite leaves a balanced impression of flavors.
In a city where exaggerated, gargantuan sandwiches often eclipse substance, Ruse’s approach favors quality over size. Their hoagies provide substantial yet manageable portions, allowing diners to savor two or even three beers post-meal without being weighed down. Speaking of pairings, the Stallion goes exceptionally well with Ruse’s Altar of Light Czech Style Premium Pale Lager or the refreshing Lightbound Pilsner, offering a crispness that enhances the sandwich’s interplay of cold cuts.
Ruse’s other standout offering is the wonderfully inventive Chop Shop, a vegan take on the beloved New York City chopped cheese. Without alienating meat lovers, this $17 hoagie boasts a flavor profile that’s rich, melty, and full of punch thanks to its addictive “chop sauce.”
Benware shared, “We’ve enjoyed lots of chopped cheese sandwiches over the years, but hadn’t personally tried a vegan one. Through tons of experimentation with plant-based meat and cheeses on our Detroit-style pizza, we knew we could create that same melty, meaty, saucy flavor while still being a vegan sub.” This sandwich serves as an enticing introduction for those wishing to explore plant-based options.
In a dining landscape where sell-out menus and scarcity fuel social media hype, Ruse Brewing’s hoagies break the mold. Customers don’t have to wait in long lines or place orders in advance. Instead, Ruse’s sandwiches stand as a celebration of culinary creativity—a blend of heritage and skill, all encompassing the true spirit of their dedicated team. Simply put, Ruse Brewing has introduced hoagies to Portland that represent not just another meal but a step forward in the evolving food scene in this dynamic city.
image source from：https://www.wweek.com/food/2025/05/27/ruse-brewing-crust-collectives-somewhat-secret-deli-sandwiches-keep-the-lunch-counter-fresh/
