Located in the Stanley Marketplace at 2501 Dallas St., Suite 311, Aurora, Traveling Mercies is an intimate cocktail and oyster bar that has quickly gained recognition.
With glowing accolades from Esquire, the James Beard Foundation, and various publications as one of the best new bars, the establishment is the second venture from Annette co-owners Caroline Glover and Nelson Harvey.
However, some guests argue that this venue should primarily be celebrated for its culinary offerings, especially the seafood.
Traveling Mercies prides itself on its fresh seafood options in a cozy space often illuminated by golden sunset light.
Despite its smaller menu compared to its drink offerings, the seafood at Traveling Mercies is remarkable, providing a fresh and uncomplicated dining experience ideal for seafood enthusiasts.
Incorporating a clever play on Glover’s mother’s expression wishing safe travels, Traveling Mercies invites patrons to embark on a delightful culinary journey.
Guests can access the venue by locating its upstairs location in the third-floor space that was once a viewing lounge for the now-closed Stapleton International Airport.
A recommended starting item from their well-curated menu is the ever-changing tackle box.
This sampler platter often features two icy, shucked East Coast or West Coast oysters, alongside a selection of delightful seafood such as shrimp, razor clams, mussels, and even spreadable trout rillettes.
For those fortunate enough to encounter the razor clams on their visit, the dish presents sweet, marinated ingredients, mixed elegantly with celery, fresh herbs, and lime juice in slim shell presentations.
Another must-try dish is the mussels escabeche toast, which consists of a hunky slice of bread slathered with aïoli, topped with the vinegary shellfish, pickled mustard seeds, and dill.
Shifting the menu options seasonally to reflect the freshest available seafood, patrons can also enjoy marinated olives, ample shrimp cocktails, and salads featuring inventive takes on classics.
Recently, the composed salad featured a revamped Caesar, swapping out a once-popular iceberg wedge with blue cheese.
Despite being situated in a landlocked area, Traveling Mercies manages to present fresher oysters crafted from deliveries arriving daily from Denver International Airport, which is located only 22 minutes away.
Nonetheless, some guests feel that certain dishes lack the required punch, such as the oeuf tonnato.
Styled with a soft-boiled egg in a creamy anchovy and tuna sauce with anchovy fillets, it could benefit from an added touch of salt or a splash of zesty lemon for enhanced flavor.
Moreover, the silky tonnato sauce invites a need for bread to absorb its richness.
The cocktails available at Traveling Mercies, which includes several zero-proof options, also leave room for growth in balance and flavor.
For instance, a cocktail like The Hills are Alive is described as reminiscent of a crisp apple in the Italian Alps, but lacks depth.
Meanwhile, their Misirlou cocktail, showcasing a funkier rhum, can clash with the delicate flavors stemming from the seafood menu.
Among the extensive range of zero-proof drinks, the visually appealing Third Way brings a beautiful purple color, but is overshadowed by an overly sweet flavor.
Fortunately, standouts do exist; guests rave about the house martini, customizable with Kyro dry gin or Ketel One vodka, which is enhanced by house-made oyster shell vermouth, tomato water, and brine.
Chilled and savory, the martini, presented with an olive, cornichon, pickled onion, and a lemon twist, represents an ideal dirty martini experience.
Ultimately, while some may consider Traveling Mercies primarily a bar, the seafood offerings can certainly elevate the dining scene, coaxing one to categorize it as an oyster house or full-fledged seafood restaurant with a cocktail accompaniment.
Guests comparing Traveling Mercies to noted establishments such as Saltie Girl in Boston or Barnacle Bar in Seattle find the seafood just as engaging and memorable.
Regardless of how one chooses to define or label Traveling Mercies, the takeaway remains clear: this venue deserves attention.
For those keen on further seafood exploration in the Denver area, several notable non-seafood restaurants also feature oysters worth considering.
Among them is Alteño in Cherry Creek, where Chef Johnny Curiel pays homage to his heritage with oysters accompanied by tangy chile güero mignonette, lemon, and crackers.
Revival Denver Public House in Uptown offers specials from both coasts—ideal for newcomers to raw oysters, particularly recommending the Oishis from Washington due to their mild flavor profile.
At Cart-Driver, located in RiNo and LoHi, guests can enjoy the surprising pairing of pizza and oysters, featuring perfectly simple, unadorned bivalves available with fresh horseradish and mignonette.
Lastly, for those who prefer a grilled twist, Coperta’s Uptown location serves broiled oysters with a delightful citrus butter and Parmesan, summoning unique savory notes.
In summary, whether one is in pursuit of a noteworthy seafood experience or simply wishing to explore the offerings of Traveling Mercies, the journey through its culinary delights and surrounding dining options is sure to please any palate.
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