In recent years, Texas-style brisket has captivated the palates of food lovers, and its popularity has notably expanded beyond the Lone Star State.
Austin pitmasters have been refining their methods for about 15 years, perfecting the art of smoking this once undervalued cut of beef.
As brisket has risen in stature, it has become more sought after than filet mignon, further popularized by an array of cookbooks and online tutorials.
Portland now boasts a vibrant barbecue scene that can rival the likes of Texas, thanks to local establishments creating their own interpretations of Texas-style barbecue.
Notably, the question of whether a barbecue joint can be evaluated solely on its brisket is a topic of discussion, as recognized by Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn.
Central to this evolution in Portland’s barbecue offerings is Har-BQ, a food cart that grew from a pop-up to a staple at Von Ebert’s North Portland brewery.
Owner Harlan Porterfield has certainly made an impression, with early offerings such as brisket nachos generating buzz, albeit with mixed reviews on other menu items like his Oktoberfest sausages.
However, recent visits to Har-BQ have revealed significant improvements, positioning the food cart as a rising star in Portland’s barbecue landscape.
Although I have yet to sample Har-BQ’s brisket in its classic sliced form—primarily offered on Saturdays and often sold out—other menu items have drawn my attention on different days.
On Fridays, I can’t resist the juicy smoked brisket burger, while Sundays offer the opportunity to indulge in smoked beef cheeks, which are tender and come paired with a beautifully seasoned salt-and-pepper crust.
In Portland’s barbecue scene, there is already no shortage of great options, with places like Bark City and Podnah’s excelling in pork ribs and Botto’s or Matt’s delivering on the brisket front.
Yet, Har-BQ distinguishes itself through its diverse cuts and thoughtful sides, making it a worthy contender on any barbecue crawl down North Mississippi Avenue.
Porterfield, along with fellow pitmaster Evan Alvarado—who formerly worked at Holy Trinity—employs a 1,000-gallon smoker to create unique offerings including smoked tri-tip served atop nutty orange romesco, and chicken breast seasoned with smoky sambal.
The menu also highlights savory pulled pork shoulder complemented by chimichurri, and tender beef cheeks adorned with an unusual but delightful ramp salsa verde, inspiring a refreshing take on traditional barbecue.
While traditional Texas barbecue typically comes with pickles and white bread, Har-BQ presents a more modern twist, serving its offerings with a seeded baguette picked up from a local bakery.
In addition to the primary smoked meats, Har-BQ also features enticing sides, such as cheesy dashi grits and miso koji butter corn, which, while excellent, may not drive patrons solely to the cart.
The ginger-miso carrot slaw, heightened by a vinegar-based dressing, serves as an appealing counterbalance to the rich meats, reminiscent of the role kimchi plays in Korean barbecue.
Despite the commendable menu, there are still areas for improvement at Har-BQ.
The tri-tip slices could benefit from being cut all the way through for easier enjoyment, and the sausages—while a focal point of initial critique—still contain a chewy casing that detracts from the overall experience.
Interestingly, crowds have not yet fully discovered Har-BQ, with many visits revealing little competition for food at noon when the cart opens.
This tranquil setting allows a peek into the artisans at work, with Alvarado cooking inside the truck as Porterfield manages the smoker and connects to a Bluetooth speaker set for perfect vibes.
As the sun shines on the outdoor patio, patrons gather, enjoying Von Ebert beer paired with flavorful snack options like the gochujang-glazed pork belly burnt ends.
It’s a scene reminiscent of warmer seasons, hinting at a fruitful future for barbecue in Portland.
Har-BQ operates Fridays through Sundays, with sandwiches on Fridays and plates featuring smoked meats on weekends.
Located at Von Ebert Brewing on 825 N. Cook St., diners can expect a culinary experience that showcases both traditional and innovative facets of barbecue cooking.
Try to visit on a Saturday for a shot at the brisket, but arrive early to avoid disappointment—there’s little doubt it’s something special worth trying.
Vegetarian options are limited, as even the corn dish includes pork, maintaining a strong focus on meat.
For ease of access, ordering from the food cart involves navigating a narrow space, but seating options abound, from picnic-style tables to wheelchair-accessible spots indoors.
Public transportation is accessible via TriMet bus line 4, with stops conveniently located near the brewery.
With unique offerings and a growing reputation, Har-BQ is establishing itself as a go-to destination for barbecue enthusiasts in Portland.
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