As downtown Los Angeles gradually emerges from the shadows of a curfew, restaurants are bustling once again, signaling a tentative recovery for the area.
At Cafe 2001, I enjoyed a delightful lunch featuring poached chicken alongside vibrant radishes and tarragon mayonnaise, complemented by buttered milk bread toast.
Just as I was reminiscing about the culinary brilliance of chef Giles Clark, our eager waiter presented a plate of sunshine: three perfectly fried corn fritters, adorned with flash-fried basil, a lime wedge, and a mound of salt for dipping.
The vibrant chile sauce accompanying the fritters was unnecessary; the natural sweetness of the corn, balanced by salt and herbs, was a winner, perfectly heralding the onset of summer.
I was dining with Daniel Hernandez, the editor of L.A. Times Food, in a packed cafe while observing the closures around us. Yess, the dinner-only big brother restaurant of Cafe 2001 by chef Junya Yamasaki, was shuttered, although hopeful signs of life appeared as we glimpsed activity in the kitchen through the glass blocks.
The curfews imposed on downtown Los Angeles left the streets eerily empty, and as columnist Jenn Harris noted, businesses, particularly in the Japanese Village Plaza, were heavily impacted, leaving diners and shoppers disheartened.
However, following the lifting of the curfew, downtown L.A. is showing promising signs of rejuvenation.
Harris pointed out that shortly after the curfew ended, people began lining up at Daikokuya in Little Tokyo, which is famous for its tonkotsu ramen. This scene was a hopeful indicator of a return to normalcy, yet some top establishments like Kato, led by acclaimed chef Jon Yao, experienced a drastic 70% drop in reservations amid lingering doubts about safety.
Ryan Bailey, a partner at Kato, attributed this reduction to negative media portrayals of downtown L.A., which overshadow the reality of a vibrant urban life. Despite the narratives suggesting downtown is uninviting, real estate trends indicate a gradually revitalizing area, with occupancy rates in downtown apartments remaining above 90% in the post-pandemic era.
The population in downtown has more than tripled since 2000, reflecting its evolving nature into a thriving 24-hour lifestyle hub.
On a visit to Hama Sushi, another popular dining spot in Little Tokyo, I met with reporter Stephanie Breijo. By arriving early, we secured seats at the sushi bar, where the restaurant filled quickly behind us.
Many diners were there to honor the legacy of the recently deceased owner Tsutomu Iyama. Breijo is set to report on Iyama’s life, but during our visit, the staff was in high spirits, expertly serving high-quality sushi without pretension, a testament to Iyama’s vision.
A couple of days later, I found myself back at Cafe 2001, which has quickly become a go-to spot for me, serving all-day dining and evening meals.
Previously, I highlighted Clark’s exquisite red-wine-poached egg and his acclaimed caponata in our brunch guide. My current favorite, however, are the corn fritters, offering a delightful culinary welcome as downtown reawakens after a week of closures.
The socio-political landscape is not lost on those in the culinary community. Evelin Gomez, a juice bar employee at Vallarta Supermarket, shared her experiences with reporter Lauren Ng, noting how customers feel the American dream has slipped away.
Ng delved into the sentiments of immigrant founders and their descendants as ICE enforcement actions sweep through Southern California. Amidst these challenges, Casa Vega’s owner, Christy Vega, emerged as an outspoken critic of ICE operations, linking her actions to the legacy of her immigrant father.
The Boyle Heights restaurant X’tiosu, operated by chef-founders Felipe and Ignacio Santiago, has taken steps to support the immigrant community amidst enforcement fears.
Shared sentiments echo throughout the community; even for those with legal documents, there remains an undercurrent of concern for the broader immigrant population.
In light of these challenges, assistant food editor Danielle Dorsey compiled a guide on 15 fundraisers and community events aimed at supporting those directly affected by ICE actions, with activities scheduled for the upcoming weekend.
In other lighter culinary news, South Bay is witnessing the rise of Vin Folk, a hotspot that has impressed diners and critics alike.
Columnist Jenn Harris emphasized the dynamic atmosphere at the Hermosa Beach establishment led by chefs Kevin de los Santos and Katya Shastova, noting the restaurant’s vibrant, promising energy.
The innovative menu draws on sophisticated techniques without excessive fussy presentation, solidifying Vin Folk’s reputation as an awe-inspiring destination in the South Bay.
Harris highlighted several standout dishes, including a savory tart reminiscent of mussels in escabeche merged with pot pie flavors, alongside headcheese toast, inspired by Langer’s Deli’s legendary patty melt.
One offering, pritto, showcased a reinterpretation of Taiwanese popcorn chicken, while exceptionally tender beef tongue paid homage to Shastova’s Russian heritage, and a risotto-like take on Singapore chili crab added enticing variety.
The restaurant also emphasizes mentorship for its staff, training them across different roles in the kitchen and front of the house, promoting well-rounded skills essential for future endeavors.
In food culture, Vanessa Anderson’s latest Grocery Goblin piece explored the significance of strawberry red Fanta in Thai traditions.
Known as Fanta nam daeng or ‘Fanta red water,’ this beverage is commonly found at Thai shrines and spirit houses, which have made their way into grocery stores and eateries, symbolizing offerings made to spirits.
The practice, as described by Pip Paganelli from Banh Kanom Thai, originally involved animal sacrifices, replaced now by sweet offerings like red Fanta, which spirits allegedly favor for its saccharine taste.
Anderson went on to discuss themes of red in recipes compiled by deputy food editor Danielle Dorsey celebrating Juneteenth, highlighting that the color red symbolizes both remembrance of past struggles and an emblem of power.
Finally, in food nostalgia, columnist Gustavo Arellano reflected on the significant milestone of Taco Bell’s Crunchwrap Supreme, which debuted two decades ago in tandem with the legendary film “Jaws,” released 50 years prior.
Arellano humorously admitted to trying a Crunchwrap for the first time this month and expressed disappointment in its texture and crunch, showcasing a yearning for more authenticity in fast food.
Despite his underwhelming experience with the Crunchwrap, Arellano referenced a recipe by Jenn Harris that allows home cooks to recreate Taco Bell’s staple with a personal touch, ensuring a better crunch and enjoyable experience in a cozy home environment.
In essence, while downtown L.A. grapples with its recent challenges, the resilience of its culinary scene shines through, enhancing community ties and fostering a vibrant local culture.
From cafes bringing comfort back to sushi spots honoring legacies, and new innovations in neighborhoods, the culinary landscape reflects a determined spirit that embodies the heart of Los Angeles.
image source from：latimes
