Chinatown, once a bastion of authentic eateries catering primarily to immigrants, is experiencing a significant shift driven by the influx of chain restaurants over the past decade.
With nearly 20 chains settling in and more on the horizon, including Molly Tea and Chubby Skewers, the landscape of this iconic neighborhood is changing rapidly, pushing traditional mom-and-pop establishments to the brink.
Housing advocates have long been vigilant against the threat of residential gentrification, as upscale high-rises increasingly encircle the ethnic enclave.
However, this wave of commercial gentrification, marked by rising rents and the decline of independent businesses, has led local owners to feel the squeeze, worrying about their future as larger chains take over prime storefronts.
The recent trend reflects a shift in customer demographics, with businesses now catering to a mix of international students, tourists, and adventurous non-Asian diners rather than solely to immigrants seeking familiar tastes.
As a result, chain restaurants are perceived to meet the new clientele’s expectations for better service and consistency while smaller establishments struggle to compete.
Brian Moy, owner of China Pearl restaurant, highlighted the complexities of this evolution, pointing out both the benefits of heightened product quality for newcomers and the challenges faced by family-run restaurants.
Despite maintaining a unique character, many local spots find it increasingly difficult to remain viable next to these corporate entities, which operate like well-oiled machines.
Boston’s shopping districts are no strangers to this trend; from Harvard Square to Newbury Street, the proliferation of recognizable national and international brands contributes to a cookie-cutter atmosphere.
In Chinatown, however, the international chains may not be well-known to local residents, though they have a significant presence in various parts of Asia.
Often working with local partners and franchisees, these businesses are able to secure lucrative rental agreements in a market where space is at a premium.
Local business owners and real estate brokers confirm that the rents in Chinatown are soaring, with a 1,000-square-foot storefront fetching over $100 per square foot, ranking among the highest in Boston after the Seaport District and Newbury Street.
Landlords have a tendency to favor chain tenants, who can typically afford higher rents and endure economic downturns better than independent establishments, as pointed out by Derek Wong, owner of V & E Realty.
Consequently, local business owners like Gloria Chin, who runs both Double Chin restaurant and Bao Bao Bakery & Cafe, are increasingly under pressure to meet rising rental costs.
Chin, who faces an eviction due to a rent hike from $14,000 to $25,000 a month, believes the competition from chains has significantly impacted her landlord’s pricing strategy.
Chin’s family established Bao Bao Bakery in 2004, and she took over the business while adding Double Chin in 2016, known for its modern Asian fusion dishes.
As chains proliferate in Chinatown, Chin expresses concern that they fail to contribute anything creative or valuable, merely replicating existing concepts and further gentrifying the area.
Conversely, David Zhao, co-founder of Chubby Group, which operates numerous restaurants across the country, argues that chains provide a much-needed model for growth within the Asian restaurant industry.
Zhao advocates for scaling operations, seeing it as a way to leverage purchasing power and negotiate rent terms that could benefit the community as a whole.
He contends that traditional immigrant-run establishments often resorted to low prices and cramped spaces, sacrificing service quality.
By changing this narrative, Zhao aims to elevate Asian cuisine’s status in the United States, positioning it on par with renowned culinary traditions.
Community advocates caution that this represents yet another form of gentrification as Boston prepares to finalize its rezoning plans for Chinatown.
As property owners anticipate new guidelines that enable taller developments, some are already gearing up to sell, which could exacerbate rental pressures on small businesses.
Karen Chen, executive director of the Chinese Progressive Association, urges the city to implement protective measures for Chinatown to safeguard its unique character.
She worries that new owners, having paid top dollar for properties, will impose higher rents that could drive out mom-and-pop establishments.
Andy Kuang, co-founder of the Massachusetts Asian Restaurant Association, sees the presence of chains as reflective of the evolving diversity of Chinese cuisine in America.
This diversification is vital for maintaining the vibrancy of Boston’s Chinatown and could pave the way for more unique Asian dining experiences in neighboring communities like Malden and Quincy.
In his view, the changes occurring in Chinatown are a natural transition that could inject new life into the long-standing cultural enclave here.
As businesses and community members navigate this complex landscape, the future of Chinatown hangs in the balance, with tensions between tradition and modernity shaping its destiny.
image source from：bostonglobe
