In a notable change for Denver’s culinary scene, the former Lao Wang Noodle House location on South Federal Boulevard, which served soup dumplings for 25 years, has been transformed into a new restaurant named El Pulgarcito de Bukele.
Specializing in pupusas and other Salvadoran dishes, El Pulgarcito de Bukele brings a taste of El Salvador to a city where such options are increasingly rare.
The significance behind the restaurant’s name relates to both a cherished nickname for El Salvador, “El Pulgarcito de America” or “the Little Thumb of the Americas,” and the current president, Nayib Bukele, who has stirred considerable interest in the U.S. since taking office in 2019.
Despite the political challenges associated with Bukele’s controversial standing, including his role in the detention of Trump deportees, the restaurant seems to appeal primarily to a Salvadoran clientele, with its nostalgic menu items catered toward Cuzcatlecos missing the tastes of home.
Curiously, the restaurant captures this sentiment with fun imagery; a cartoon version of Bukele in chef’s attire graces the sign, and a life-size photo of him decorates the dining area, creating a unique atmosphere as a tribute to the leader.
For those unfamiliar with Salvadoran cuisine, the menu features a variety of dishes that are emblematic of the country’s food culture. One standout item is the mata niño, which translates to “child killer.” Contrary to its alarming name, this sandwich is simply a favorite street snack among Salvadoran youth, combining an herb-filled slaw called curtido, diced mortadella, sautéed yellow and orange peppers, and is generously topped with mayonnaise and ketchup.
Pairing the mata niño with the vibrant Picamas Salsa Brava adds a delightful kick to this sweet-and-savory snack.
Another must-try is the rigua, a flat corn cake typically served with crema Salvadoreña. These corn cakes, cooked in banana leaves, boast a caramelized exterior that enhances their natural sweetness, making them perfect for savoring alongside the tangy cream.
El Pulgarcito also showcases other favorites, such as nuegados, which are fried yuca patties, pasteles resembling Mexican empanadas, and empanadas de manjar blanco, which consists of fried plantain filled with a sweet custard and dusted with sugar.
Pupusas, which are a staple of Salvadoran cuisine, are also available in a dozen varieties, including options like loroco, zucchini, chicharrón, shrimp, and carne al pastor. Each pupusa oozes with delicious melted cheese, offering a hearty treat for visitors and locals alike.
Beyond pupusas, El Pulgarcito expands its offerings with a selection of soups and entrées that include dishes from both Salvadoran and Mexican traditions, catering to a variety of tastes.
While the political implications of its name might deter some Denver residents from visiting El Pulgarcito de Bukele, the restaurant’s primary focus on delivering authentic Salvadoran flavors provides a comforting sense of home for those in the city who identify with the culture.
For Salvadorans searching for a taste of their homeland, El Pulgarcito offers a rare culinary haven in the Denver area, making it an essential destination for homesick Cuzcatlecos craving their beloved mata niño and other beloved dishes.
image source from：https://www.5280.com/try-child-killer-sandwich-at-new-westwood-salvadoran-pupuseria/
