When Chef Toshi Kizaki and his brother, Yasu, opened Sushi Den in 1984, I was introduced to a very different Denver.
The city’s restaurant scene was virtually nonexistent, especially when it came to sushi.
However, over the past four decades, the landscape has dramatically transformed, significantly influenced by the brothers’ groundbreaking venture.
Today, as the culinary community in Denver thrives, Chef Toshi is at the forefront again with Kizaki, an omakase concept that reflects his long-standing dedication to quality and precision in sushi preparation.
Kyle Kim, a pivotal member of Kizaki’s kitchen team, serves a multi-faceted role blending cooking, hosting, and educating guests about the intricacies of omakase.
According to Kim, “Sushi Den didn’t used to look like it does now.”
This remark underscores the evolution not only of the restaurant but also of the broader culinary scene in Denver.
The restaurant’s aesthetic is an homage to understated Japanese elegance, with warm lighting highlighting the bamboo and Siberian Elm that create a serene environment.
Subtle sounds of fish being cut and sushi rice being pressed add to the ambience, enhancing the overall dining experience.
One prominent feature is the carefully curated sake menu organized by sake sommelier Yuki Minakawa, alongside beautifully designed ceramic koi fish ice buckets for presenting the selections.
This attention to detail echoes the ethos behind Kizaki’s cuisine, which celebrates the natural flavors of high-quality ingredients.
Kizaki exemplifies the philosophy that good seafood can thrive even far from the ocean, a statement Chef Toshi and Yasu’s youngest brother has solidified by flying in fresh fish from Nagahama Fish Market in Southern Japan multiple times a week.
This commitment to sourcing the best has firmly established Kizaki and its sibling concepts—Sushi Den, Izakaya Den, OTOTO, and Temaki Den—as cornerstone establishments in Denver’s evolving food scene.
In a city adorned with Michelin-starred establishments, the influence of Toshi and Yasu is undeniable, as their dedication to quality cuisine significantly shaped the local culinary landscape.
Kizaki’s omakase menu evolves with seasonal fish availability, offering approximately twenty thoughtfully created courses reflect the traditions of Edomae, a style originating from Tokyo’s historical fishing villages.
The progression of dishes is designed to build and collapse in waves, culminating in a refined dining experience where simplicity meets peak flavor.
Before the omakase journey begins, guests enjoy a cocktail at the Denchu bar, a bright and inviting space that transitions between casual and refined dining.
The characteristic menu includes both sake and wine pairing options available from the bar, all perfectly complementing the impending gastronomic adventure.
Each course unveils a surprising synergy of flavors, starting with a delicate Ichiban Dashi, a warm fish broth that awakens the palate with the addition of freshly chopped negi, the Japanese spring onion.
Following this, guests experience the silky and earthy Unryu Tofu, beautifully marbled with black and white sesame and an exquisite fava bean topping.
With Tara no Nanbankuze, a lightly fried Alaskan Cod Filet, the palette is lifted higher by sour notes and flaky textures.
The experience then crescendos with a lean cut of Blue Fin Tuna sashimi, garnished impressively with potherbs and pickled mushrooms.
At Kizaki, where flavors tell their own story, the Hawaiian Kanpachi is dressed with sesame and accompanied by mandarin bites, while an immediate handroll of Bluefin Toro, negi, and caviar is best enjoyed fresh to maintain its crispy nori texture.
Chef Toshi engages diners further by showcasing the fin and collar of the Bluefin tuna before presenting the Maguro Kamayaki, a grilled and smoked preparation that transforms the fish’s dense texture into something meltingly luxurious.
As the omakase unfolds, waves of nigiri offers light yet diverse flavor profiles, beginning with the Golden Eye Snapper, then progressing to the Horse Mackerel, the succulent Japanese Tiger Prawn, and finally featuring a seasoned Black Throat Sea Perch.
Completing this wave is the Amadai no Wafukoso Pankoyaki, a lightly breaded tilapia that brings a pleasing element of crunch.
Next comes the essence of the ocean with smoky, sweet Seared Hokkaido Scallop and New Zealand King Salmon, highlighted by pops of Gold Trout Roe, a contrasting taste profile to the highly debated Uni – a rare delicacy enjoyed by some but shied away from by others, making way for the amusingly charred and torched Aburi Lobster.
Zuwaigani no Chuwanmushi, a signature Japanese Egg Custard elegantly topped with snow crab, lily, and mushrooms rekindles nostalgic flavors while providing warmth and comfort.
Midway through the omakase experience, diners are treated to a melt-in-your-mouth moment as the courses continue.
Bluefin Toro elevates the richness of each bite, followed by the flavorful Magurozuke marinated in soy, sake, and mirin that provides a depth of flavor topped with blue cheese.
The climax culminates with the Aburi Toro, a delicate piece seared to sweet perfection, wrapped in Eel and Avocado Maki, finished with a house-made sweet Amadare sauce, serving as a striking end to the sushi courses.
To help digest and process the evening’s beverages, a Miso Soup utilizes the cleansing benefits of Minila Clams while Chef Toshi humorously suggests that completing the soup justifies a second drink.
Reenergized, guests may opt for a pour of Akashi Ume Japanese whisky, gently sweet and warming.
As dessert approaches, diners savor the delightful contrast of Ichigo Daifuku, a strawberry mochi pastry, served alongside Hojicha Pudding, an earthy and subtle roasted green tea dessert crowned with a sesame tuille.
Both desserts showcase Chef Toshi’s artistic commitment to providing flavors unlike any found elsewhere in Denver, capping off an extraordinary meal.
For the final touch, a selection of tea awaits, particularly recommending the Soba Cha, or buckwheat tea, magnifying the authenticity of the experience.
As the first seating concludes, Chef Toshi is seen thoughtfully signing menus in his native script, resting easy knowing the night’s work was well-received.
Reflecting on his lengthy journey back to grace and grandeur, Chef Toshi admits, “I lost my passion,” explaining his extended delay in executing the omakase concept he envisioned for years.
Yet, seeing him knead sushi rice and slice fish expertly, it’s clear the passion that once wavered has surged back, igniting a fresh wave of creativity and drive.
With a blend of experience, skill, and rekindled fervor, he constructs a 23-course menu reflects a masterful blend of flavors that ultimately leave guests feeling satisfied rather than overwhelmed.
This dedication speaks volumes of Chef Toshi’s artistry, meticulously trained over four decades in a culinary industry that has demanded both resilience and innovation.
As Denver’s food scene reaches new heights, depending on the past and true skill, Chef Toshi Kizaki stands at Kizaki where it all began, poised for the next chapter of his culinary legacy.
Kizaki is now located at 1551 S. Pearl St., Denver, and offers seatings at 5 p.m. and 8 p.m., Thursday through Sunday.
Reservations can conveniently be made through OpenTable.
All photography accompanying this article has been captured by James Florio.
image source from：https://303magazine.com/2025/06/with-new-omakase-chefs-counter-kizaki-chef-toshis-40-year-journey-at-the-heart-of-denvers-restaurant-scene-comes-masterfully-full-circle/
