In Los Angeles, the vibrant scene of street vendors offering diverse Latino cuisines is a hallmark of summer dining.
At the El Gato Night Market, located on the border of Westlake and Pico-Union, rows of multicolored tents and the aroma of sizzling carne asada fill the air, bringing families together in a festive atmosphere.
However, the market has faced significant challenges recently.
On June 28, the number of vendors at El Gato dwindled to just 45, a stark contrast to the typical 70 to 80 vendors that usually populate the space.
This decline in participation follows a temporary closure of the market for two weeks due to increased Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) raids throughout Los Angeles.
Geofrey Mejia, the owner of Nieves Artesanales, an ice cream cart known for its traditional Mexican flavors, expressed hope for recovery after the market reopened on June 20 in a smaller lot across the street from its original location.
“Hopefully by next week we’re back to normal, slowly but surely,” Mejia said.
Mejia noted that many vendors rely solely on their stalls for income, which puts them in a precarious situation as they navigate safety concerns while trying to make a living.
Street vendors play a vital role in the L.A. food scene, creating a sense of home for many immigrants while also providing accessible dining options for the community.
However, visiting the market comes with risks, as the presence of ICE agents makes some potential customers hesitant to attend.
“It seems like [ICE agents] are just picking up anybody,” Mejia added, reflecting the growing concerns about profiling among vendor communities.
As the economic impact of ICE raids becomes apparent, some vendors have taken an active stance against these federal actions.
A trio operating an aguas frescas stand recently participated in protests, pouring milk on the faces of protesters affected by tear gas to provide relief during clashes.
“People have been afraid to buy, and that really affects vendors like us,” lamented Favian Salas from Tacos El Champ.
Salas emphasized the interconnected nature of their business, stating, “If we don’t sell, there is no economy … and it’s affecting everyone.”
The situation at El Gato Night Market thus becomes a balancing act aimed at supporting the local economy amidst fear and uncertainty.
Vendors showcase their culinary offerings in hopes of comforting locals who frequent the market for a taste of their culture.
Cristian Bautista, an organizer of El Gato, understands the weight of this responsibility for vendors, many of whom rely heavily on the market as their primary source of income.
“I didn’t want to shut down the market last month because of vendor safety,” Bautista stated, explaining that an enclosed venue was chosen to mitigate risks.
Bautista also employs a security guard during market hours, reinforcing his commitment to customer and vendor safety.
The community surrounding El Gato Night Market is diverse, with vendors representing various Latino backgrounds as well as East Asian cultures.
Bautista recognizes the appeal of having a wide range of culinary options in one space, noting, “In various places, usually there are only tacos and Mexican food … [At El Gato] there are many people from different countries.”
The intimate feel of the night market contrasts with the challenges faced by vendors, who serve up an array of dishes, including pan dulce, carnitas, and smoked ribs.
El Gato has grown from a handful of vendors to a bustling late-night destination that draws between 800 and 1,000 customers on busy nights.
However, since the market reopened on June 20, there has been a noticeable drop in attendees.
Mejia estimates that approximately 30% to 40% of the market’s customers are tourists, supporting vendors and the local community alike.
As Savanna Deyro visited from Las Vegas with her family, she expressed a desire to support the vendors at El Gato.
“We always like to support local businesses and help out the community as much as we can,” she shared after purchasing pupusas from Vicky’s Pupusas.
Jocelyn Arevalo, who has been vending with Vicky’s Pupusas for several months, echoed feelings of uncertainty as they navigate the impact of recent events on their sales.
“We are afraid that something might happen,” Arevalo said, reflecting the anxiety shared among many vendors about how apprehension among customers can lead to decreased sales.
Local resident Jonothan Vasquez has been a regular at the night market, visiting every week for over a year.
He observed fewer customers since the market’s recent reopening but emphasized the importance of supporting immigrant-owned businesses.
“I love to support because it means the difference,” Vasquez mentioned.
“The good food and customer service is what keeps bringing me back.”
Salas, from Tacos El Champ, acknowledged the decline in attendance but remained hopeful as crowds slowly began to return.
He reflected on his passion for providing authentic Tijuana-style tacos, stating, “When people try [our tacos], they practically feel like they’re in Mexico.”
The camaraderie among vendors is palpable as they continue to support each other during this challenging time, despite low customer turnout.
Arevalo implored customers to visit El Gato, emphasizing the range of cuisines available.
“People should come since we have food from all countries, from Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala, Mexico,” she said, stressing that it’s their primary source of income.
As El Gato Night Market looks to bounce back, the future for vendors remains uncertain, yet their dedication to their craft and community persists.
In the spirit of resilience, vendors continue to provide comfort, culture, and culinary adventure in the heart of Los Angeles.
image source from：latimes
