French fries are an enduring obsession for many, yet not all varieties are created equal. The thick French fry, often seen as the villain in the fry hierarchy, has faced significant disdain. Steak fries, perceived as wedges of bland starch, evoke feelings akin to consuming molded mashed potatoes. No dipping sauce, be it ketchup, ranch, or aioli, seems sufficient to save these thick fry blemishes from their fate in the depths of tuber hell. For those seeking a simpler solution, a baked potato is suggested over these less savory options.
In contrast, curly fries, when expertly prepared, boast crisp perfection with every coil, while waffle fries have their own fanbase. However, skinny fries stand out as the underrated gems of the fry world, providing a superior textural experience with a delightful balance of crunch and fluff. When three skinny fries huddle together for a dip in a favorite condiment, they deliver a flavor punch that a single fat fry can hardly match.
For years, the French fries at Chateau Marmont were held in high regard as the pinnacle of fry perfection. Presented in a stylish silver cylinder, these truffle Parmesan fries ($17) exuded an air of luxury amidst the various burger accompaniments. The enticing aroma of truffles wafting from the mountain of fries often incited both envy and admiration.
Despite the hype, recent taste tests across various establishments, including Heavy Handed and République, have caused the author to reconsider their stance on the best fries in Los Angeles. Nonetheless, the fries at Chateau Marmont remain a strong contender, especially when paired with a chilled martini. Even the intimidating presence of the two hosts at the entrance, who guard access to this exclusive venue, doesn’t diminish the appeal of their iconic fries.
Another worthy contender in the battle for the ultimate French fry is the new establishment Happies Hand Made, located in the Arts District. Famed for its tallow fries, which are cooked in beef tallow, they present beautifully long, golden sticks that crunch satisfyingly with each bite. Seasoned perfectly with salt and pepper, these fries elevate the experience to a level where ketchup becomes unnecessary. However, as deputy Food editor Betty Hallock insists, a French fry is not complete without a dip in ketchup.
In an unexpected twist, the best French fry experience may just lie within the Italian eatery, Rossoblu, nestled in the Arts District. Known for its regional Italian cuisine, the establishment also features a side of fries that defies expectations. Listed on the menu under “contorni,” the Apennine fries — priced at $14 — have become a revelation.
Inspired by childhood memories of dining in a small mountain village in the Apennines near Bologna, chef Steve Samson recalls an unforgettable moment when he experienced fries paired with balsamic vinegar. The fragrant memory lingered, shaping his desire to recreate that unique fry experience.
The Apennine fries differ from typical thick fries, appearing rather more refined, while maintaining an enticing thickness. They arrive in a generously portioned bowl, glistening and adorned with balsamic vinegar. Each fry boasts a rough surface reminiscent of well-fried chicken, topped with fragrant fried rosemary and sage.
The crunchiness of these fries surpasses expectations for a thicker fry, with the outside layer able to achieve a crispness comparable to potato chips. Surprisingly, the structure of the fry itself possesses a deep crunch that extends through almost the entire fry, leading to a soft, fluffy center. Each fry is a guaranteed standout, with no need to sift through the heap for the best ones.
With the first bites, diners are greeted by a delightful tang of balsamic vinegar, invoking flavors that transport the palate to a different plane of existence. The combination of textures and flavors in these Apennine fries is nothing short of transformative, turning even the staunchest thick fry critics into believers.
The secret to the Apennine fries lies in Steve’s commitment to Kennebec potatoes, which he exclusively uses for this dish. However, consistency proves elusive, as sourcing these potatoes can be a challenge. Due to high demand from other establishments, including In-N-Out, the availability of quality Kennebecs can fluctuate based on the time of year and how the potatoes have been stored.
Steve passionately emphasizes the labor-intensive preparation process for these fries. After cutting them, the potatoes undergo a rigorous overnight soak, followed by steaming in the oven. Once cooled and dried, the fries are first fried until thoroughly cooked, then cooled again to ensure the ideal texture. Finally, they are flash-fried to order at a temperature of 375 degrees.
Despite the painstaking effort put into this process, achieving the perfect fry is not guaranteed. Variability in the quality of the potatoes can lead to disappointment, with some batches absorbing excessive oil or disintegrating in the fryer. When a batch turns out perfectly, the feeling of triumph is palpable.
Steve aims to have the Apennine fries consistently available and encourages potential diners to check ahead to ensure their presence on the menu.
In conclusion, the relentless pursuit of the perfect French fry continues in Los Angeles, with establishments like Chateau Marmont, Happies Hand Made, and Rossoblu each offering unique interpretations of this beloved side dish. As the debate rages on about which fry reigns supreme, one thing is clear: French fries elicit passionate opinions and hearty discussions, making them a central figure in the culinary landscape.
image source from：latimes
