In the bustling streets of Hollywood, the sounds of helicopters and distant car traffic are the backdrop for a beloved culinary tradition: elotes and esquites.
These classic Mexican street foods, embodying Indigenous ingenuity, are becoming increasingly popular among diverse communities.
While street vendors, known as eloteros, are a common sight in Latino neighborhoods across Los Angeles, Hollywood has seen a decline in these vendors.
Historically, the last notable elotero in the area was Benjamín Ramírez, whose cart was infamously attacked in a viral video back in 2017.
Spotting an opportunity to cater to the local crowd, José Pablo Caselin opened Elotes Los Santaneros in the same year from a simple shopping cart.
Originally serving from a cart, Caselin’s family business has now expanded into a fleet of six gas-powered golf carts, designed to efficiently deliver elotes and esquites throughout Hollywood and East Hollywood.
Caselin’s brother Samuel and several nephews, including José Luis, Fausto, and José, have joined him in the venture, collectively covering a wide area from Hollywood Boulevard to Olympic Boulevard.
Their operation has a unique flair as each golf cart is adorned with a novelty Puebla license plate and the family name is proudly displayed in the tricolor colors of the Mexican flag.
An emblem of pride, a Mexican flag flies from the hoods of the carts, signifying resilience against the looming presence of Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) raids in the area.
“We are out and selling, and giving it all we got,” states José Luis, undeterred by the challenges faced by the Latino community.
As they cruise through neighborhoods with a mix of Mexican and Central American residents, the eloteros honk their horns, drawing in loyal customers who eagerly await their favorite treats.
Regulars can also call to request a special delivery, with many reaching out through WhatsApp to let the Caselin family know they want their elotes or esquites.
The meticulous recipes used at Elotes Los Santaneros feature both mayonnaise and melted butter, sprinkled with queso Cotija and freshly ground chile de árbol powder.
Lime juice can be added upon request for an extra zing.
Esquites are prepared with freshly cooked corn kernels, rich mayonnaise, cotija cheese, and butter, served in a cup that encapsulates the essence of traditional flavors.
For those seeking a trendy alternative, tostiesquites are available, where the same delicious ingredients are served in a bag of Tostitos chips.
Beyond elotes and esquites, the golf carts also offer a variety of snacks, including raspados—shaved ice made with fresh fruits.
The flavors are reminiscent of Mexico, featuring options like juicy pineapple, sweet and sour guanábana, and nanche, a unique fruit that is a cross between an olive and a cherry.
Other popular raspado flavors include strawberry, mango, tamarind, and coconut, each adding to the colorful offerings from the Caselin family.
On special occasions, such as Mother’s Day, Elotes Los Santaneros has gone above and beyond by giving away free elotes and raspados to mothers in the community.
Their outreach at the Lemon Grove Recreation Center in East Hollywood exemplifies their commitment to the local residents and the celebration of cultural identity.
Through the trials of the COVID-19 pandemic and the pressures from federal raids, this immigrant-owned business continues to thrive, serving as a beacon of hope and connection through food.
The presence and persistence of Elotes Los Santaneros showcase the resilient spirit of eloteros, fruteros, and taqueros in Los Angeles, bringing a taste of Mexico to the streets of Hollywood.
“Come see us and ask for your esquites con tocho morocho [a little of everything],” José Luis invites, emphasizing their dedication to customer satisfaction.
Elotes Los Santaneros operates daily from 1 p.m. to 8 p.m., and customers can reach them at (323) 557-8499 for their delicious offerings.
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