Chef Christophe De Lellis, known for his previous role as executive chef at the renowned Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas, has embarked on a culinary journey in Dallas, leading to one of the city’s most anticipated restaurant openings of the year, Mamani.
Teaming up with the Feels Like Home hospitality group, founded by Brandon and Henry Cohanim, De Lellis has spent the past year immersed in the diverse food culture of Texas.
Recently, De Lellis took time to explore local eateries that have captured his interest, emphasizing the cultural differences he has encountered since moving from Europe to Las Vegas and then to Texas.
He shared his experiences sampling local barbecue and tacos, highlighting his appreciation for the regional flavors and cooking techniques that he is eager to incorporate into his upcoming menu at Mamani.
The first stop on De Lellis’s culinary exploration was Hurtado Barbecue, located in the Dallas Farmers Market.
Here, the chef ordered the El Jefe platter, a monumental serving of smoked meats.
Expectations were high for the smoked turkey, but to De Lellis’s surprise, the pulled pork emerged as his favorite.
He praised the pork’s rich flavor profile, suggesting it would make an excellent filling for a Cubano sandwich.
“One of the things that really impresses me is the attention to detail in the sides,” De Lellis noted, explaining how important he believes it is to showcase culinary care throughout a meal.
His admiration for well-prepared sides ties back to his extensive training in French cuisine, emphasizing the value in every component of a plate.
After Hurtado, De Lellis ventured to Chilangos Tacos for a taste of traditional birria tacos, another Texas culinary staple he had yet to experience.
Located in an unassuming strip mall, Chilangos was bursting with vibrant decor and the enticing aromas of Mexican cuisine.
Upon tasting the quesabirria tacos, he expressed a newfound love for the crispy, flavorful corn tortillas served with a rich consomé.
His reflections on consomé revealed a deep appreciation for the foundational elements of broth-making, something he sees parallels in between French and Mexican cooking philosophies.
In discussing the construction of a good broth, De Lellis quoted a mantra from his mentor, Joël Robuchon, on the importance of simplicity in cooking, noting, “It is easy to make it complicated, but complicated to make it simple.”
The final stop of the day took them to one of Dallas’s beloved bars, Saint Valentine, known for its innovative cocktails crafted by top mixologists Gabe Sanchez and Ryan Payne.
De Lellis, who has not yet visited many bars in the area, sought to expand his culinary horizons beyond just food.
He settled in with a Sazerac and reflected on his culinary career, revealing a humorous anecdote about his experiences making espresso martinis during a busy period at Bar Colette.
He emphasized the importance of using real espresso in martinis, expressing a preference for classic recipes.
While enjoying the atmosphere, he created a mental list of other bars to visit, indicating a desire to continue his exploration of the local dining scene.
Ultimately, De Lellis is excited about his culinary journey in Dallas and is keen to discover more about the city’s barbecue and taco offerings.
As he settles into his new restaurant venture with Mamani, he aims to incorporate these local flavors into his dishes, merging his French fine-dining expertise with the heart and soul of Texas cuisine.
Dallas diners can look forward to what promises to be a unique blend of culinary influences at Mamani, as De Lellis continues to learn and adapt to the vibrant food culture around him.
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